Candice and Dan Heydon aren't just
purveyors of mushrooms, they're passionate about them. Even after
some 13 years in the mushroom business, Candice says plainly: "We're
not tired of eating, growing or talking about mushrooms." And not
surprisingly, a visit to Oyster Creek Farm & Mushroom Co. is an
education - even for those who can easily tell the difference between
a shiitake and a crimini.
The Heydons not only grow and sell fresh exotic mushrooms,
they also dry some varieties, package them for sale, test new recipes,
create mushroom oils and powders, develop marketing ideas, manage
a mail-order business and, basically, run a year-round operation.
For Candice, even before there were thousands of mushrooms
growing on logs in sheds and lean-tos here and there on their 12
acres of property, there was an entrepreneurial spirit deep inside.
For years, she worked in the restaurant business as a cook and a
waitress, but operated a seasonal wreath-making business on the
side, selling to her customers. It was participating in a chance
workshop on how to grow mushrooms that sparked a new interest that
eventually turned into a full-time business.
Beginning cautiously, the Heydons connected with a California-based
mushroom company that provided them with about 20 varieties of fresh
mushrooms that they could then sell in Maine to test the East Coast
market.
To introduce their product to the marketplace
and educate customers about the many varieties and uses of mushrooms,
the Heydons frequently set up booths at outdoor fairs, festivals
and markets. In addition to letting people see, touch and smell
their mushrooms, the Heydons also shared recipes and sold "wrap
sandwiches" made with stir-fried mushrooms.
"Now, everyone knows a lot about mushrooms," says Candice,
explaining that, a decade ago, that was hardly the case. Adds Dan,
"We'd have to give away one sandwich for every two we sold."
At the same time the Heydons were educating customers, they
also were educating themselves about operating a business. And for
help, they turned to Coastal Enterprises, Inc. (CEI), a community
development corporation based in Wiscasset, Maine.
Candice and Dan used a number of CEI services: business
counseling, courses and seminars (including classes in Web site
design, marketing, and bookkeeping software), and a variety of lending
programs.
"All the money we've put into this business we got from
CEI," says Candice, explaining that she has used several of its
lending programs. Additionally, Oyster Creek participated in CEI's
innovative "micro-equity" program, which gave CEI an equity
position and provides the business with an infusion of capital.
"They do everything they can to help me stay in business."
Slowly but steadily, Oyster Creek has grown and stabilized
to the point where, several years ago, both Candice and Dan were
able to give up outside employment to devote themselves full time
to mushrooms. Over time, they've expanded their customer base to
include restaurants around the state, cooperatives, farmers markets,
and sales over the Internet. Moreover, they no longer rely on a
California supplier, instead growing several varieties on their
property and purchasing others from mushroom foragers from throughout
Maine.
Locally, in the spring, business booms with Morels,
Chanterelles and Black Trumpets. Fall is when pickers stream to
the Heydons' farm on cool, crisp evenings with such exotic varieties
as Hen in the Wood and Matsutake. In a good year, the Heydons can
take in as many as 11,000 pounds of fresh-picked mushrooms in a
matter of weeks.
And rarely is there any waste. What doesn't sell fresh
is dried. "If I can't sell them dried, I'll grind them up and make
powder. I'll sell 'em one way or another," explains Candice.
Still, unraveling the mysteries of marketing is
a constant preoccupation for the Heydons. They've been featured
in such popular food publications as Bon Appetit and Cooking
Light, and participated in the 2002 "Fancy Food Show" in Chicago
one of the biggest food-oriented trade shows in the U.S.
But so far they haven't captured a lucrative contract with a big
supermarket chain - their ultimate goal.
Undeterred, Candice remains hopeful. "We keep trying
different things," she said. "If I'm doing nothing, then nothing
will happen. I'd rather do something and do it wrong, than do nothing.
This is our whole life … I can't stop. We're into it."